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Grill guide · Care & how-to

Basic Cleaning vs. Deep Cleaning

A basic cleaning keeps the cooking surface and grease path in working order. A deep cleaning takes the grill apart down to the burners and gets at the buildup you can't see. Most grills need the first every month or two and the second once or twice a year.

Care & how-to · Updated November 2026

Side by side

Basic cleaningDeep cleaning
GratesBrushed and scrapedRemoved, soaked, scrubbed both sides
Heat plates / briquettesScraped in place or lifted out and knocked cleanRemoved, degreased, inspected for burn-through
FireboxLoose debris scraped into the trayScraped and degreased down to bare metal
BurnersTops brushedRemoved, ports cleared, venturi tubes cleaned, inspected for cracks and rust-through
Grease tray and drip panEmptied, liner swappedRemoved and degreased, grease chute cleared
Hood interiorNot usuallyCarbon flakes scraped off, degreased
Igniters and valvesNot touchedElectrode gap checked, wires inspected, valves tested
Exterior stainlessWiped downDegreased and polished with the grain
Typical time (DIY)30 to 60 minutes3 to 5 hours on a mid-size grill

How to do a basic cleaning

Do this every month or two of regular use. You'll need a grill brush or scraper, a plastic putty knife, paper towels, a bucket of hot water with a little dish soap, and gloves.

  1. 1

    Burn off and cool

    Run all burners on high with the hood closed for 15 minutes, then shut everything off, including the gas at the tank or shutoff valve. Let the grill cool until you can touch the grates comfortably.

  2. 2

    Grates and heat plates

    Brush the grates, then lift them out. Scrape the heat plates or flavorizer bars with the putty knife and tap them over a trash bag to knock off loose carbon.

  3. 3

    Scrape the firebox

    With the grates and plates out, use the putty knife to push debris from the firebox walls and floor toward the grease opening so it drops into the tray. Brush the tops of the burners lightly along their length, not across the ports.

  4. 4

    Empty the grease tray

    Scrape the tray into the trash, wipe it with paper towels, and replace the liner if your grill uses one. Never rinse grease into the yard or a drain.

  5. 5

    Wipe and reassemble

    Wipe the control panel and hood with soapy water, dry it, put everything back, and light the grill to confirm every burner lights and burns blue.

How to do a deep cleaning

Plan for an afternoon. Add to the basic kit: a biodegradable degreaser, a stiff nylon brush, a venturi or bottle brush, a small wire or paper clip, a large plastic tub or contractor bag for soaking, and a tarp or drop cloth.

  1. 1

    Protect the area and remove parts

    Lay down a tarp. With the gas off and the grill cold, take out grates, heat plates, warming rack and grease tray. Remove the burners: most lift out after a cotter pin, screw or clip at the back is removed, then slide off the valve orifices at the front. Take a photo first so you know how they go back.

  2. 2

    Soak the heavy parts

    Put grates, plates and the tray in a tub or a doubled contractor bag with hot water and a biodegradable degreaser. Let them soak at least an hour, then scrub with the nylon brush. Porcelain-coated parts should never see a wire brush or steel wool.

  3. 3

    Clean the burners

    Brush each burner along its length. Clear clogged ports with a straightened paper clip, pushing gently. Run a venturi brush through the inlet tube to remove spider webs and debris. Shake out anything loose. Look for cracks, holes, or ports that have rusted into slots; those burners need replacing.

  4. 4

    Degrease the firebox and hood

    Scrape the firebox down, then apply degreaser, let it work, and scrub. Scrape the carbon flakes that peel off the inside of the hood. Wipe out the residue with paper towels and a small amount of water. Keep water away from igniter electrodes and wiring.

  5. 5

    Check igniters and reassemble

    Make sure each igniter tip is clean and sits close to its burner (usually about 1/8 inch). Reinstall the burners with the inlets seated fully over the valve orifices, then the plates, grates and tray.

  6. 6

    Test and polish

    Reconnect the gas, do a soap test on the connections you disturbed, and light each burner. Flames should be mostly blue with small yellow tips at most. Finish the exterior stainless with a polish, wiping with the grain.

Where DIY deep cleans usually fall short

Most people do a good job on the grates and a so-so job on everything below them. These are the spots that get missed:

  • The venturi tubes. The section of burner between the valve and the first ports is where spiders build webs. You can't see it without removing the burner. A blocked tube causes weak flames and, in the worst case, a fire behind the control panel. See spiders in burner tubes.
  • Under the burners. Grease runs down the firebox walls and pools underneath where the burners sit.
  • The grease chute. On many built-ins, a channel leads from the firebox to the tray. When it clogs, grease backs up and starts dripping into the island.
  • Rotisserie and infrared burners. The rear rotisserie burner on many premium grills gets coated and never cleaned. Ceramic infrared burners should not be scrubbed or soaked at all.

When a deep clean isn't enough

A deep clean sometimes turns up things a cleaning can't fix: heat plates rusted through, burners with split seams, a cracked firebox, valves that stick. That's normal on grills more than eight or ten years old, especially near the coast. At that point you're looking at a repair or a full restoration. Many replacement parts are inexpensive relative to the grill, so a worn-out burner is rarely a reason to replace the whole thing.

If you'd rather skip the afternoon of grease, a professional cleaning covers everything in the deep-clean list, plus a look at the parts most likely to fail next.

Common questions

Can I use oven cleaner on my grill?

We don't recommend it. Oven cleaner is caustic, it can etch aluminum castings and discolor stainless, and it's harsh on skin and plants. Hot water, time, and a biodegradable degreaser handle most grills.

Can I put grates in the dishwasher?

Small stainless grates sometimes fit, but grease and carbon can clog the dishwasher filter. Cast iron should never go in the dishwasher; it will rust.

Should I pressure wash my grill?

Not the inside. High-pressure water drives grease into seams, soaks igniter wiring and valves, and can bend thin heat shields. It also sends greasy water across the yard.

How do I know if a burner needs replacing instead of cleaning?

Holes or cracks in the burner body, ports that have rusted into long slots, or flames that stay uneven after cleaning are signs it's time. Our guide on signs burners need replacing goes into more detail.

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Troubleshooting

Spiders in Burner Tubes

Spider webs in burner venturi tubes are a common cause of weak flames and flashback fires. Here's how to spot it, clean it and prevent it.

Care & how-to

Stainless Steel Grill Care

How to keep stainless steel grills and outdoor kitchens looking right: everyday wiping, removing tea staining and rust spots, dealing with hard water, and what to never use.

Repair

Uneven Heat & Hot Spots

One side burning, the other barely warm: clogged ports, damaged burners and warped heat plates found and fixed.

Repair

Low Flame & Weak Heat

Flames stuck on low and a grill that won't get hot: regulator bypass, blockages and gas supply problems diagnosed and fixed.

Repair

Heat Plate & Flavorizer Replacement

Rusted, warped and burned-through heat plates, flavorizer bars and briquette trays replaced with matched parts.

Repair

Flare-Ups & Grease Fires

Constant flare-ups and grease fires traced to their cause, with damaged parts replaced and the grease path cleared.

Want the deep clean done for you?

Call or text, or send a couple of photos of your grill and we'll get back to you with a quote.

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