Side by side
| Basic cleaning | Deep cleaning | |
|---|---|---|
| Grates | Brushed and scraped | Removed, soaked, scrubbed both sides |
| Heat plates / briquettes | Scraped in place or lifted out and knocked clean | Removed, degreased, inspected for burn-through |
| Firebox | Loose debris scraped into the tray | Scraped and degreased down to bare metal |
| Burners | Tops brushed | Removed, ports cleared, venturi tubes cleaned, inspected for cracks and rust-through |
| Grease tray and drip pan | Emptied, liner swapped | Removed and degreased, grease chute cleared |
| Hood interior | Not usually | Carbon flakes scraped off, degreased |
| Igniters and valves | Not touched | Electrode gap checked, wires inspected, valves tested |
| Exterior stainless | Wiped down | Degreased and polished with the grain |
| Typical time (DIY) | 30 to 60 minutes | 3 to 5 hours on a mid-size grill |
How to do a basic cleaning
Do this every month or two of regular use. You'll need a grill brush or scraper, a plastic putty knife, paper towels, a bucket of hot water with a little dish soap, and gloves.
- 1
Burn off and cool
Run all burners on high with the hood closed for 15 minutes, then shut everything off, including the gas at the tank or shutoff valve. Let the grill cool until you can touch the grates comfortably.
- 2
Grates and heat plates
Brush the grates, then lift them out. Scrape the heat plates or flavorizer bars with the putty knife and tap them over a trash bag to knock off loose carbon.
- 3
Scrape the firebox
With the grates and plates out, use the putty knife to push debris from the firebox walls and floor toward the grease opening so it drops into the tray. Brush the tops of the burners lightly along their length, not across the ports.
- 4
Empty the grease tray
Scrape the tray into the trash, wipe it with paper towels, and replace the liner if your grill uses one. Never rinse grease into the yard or a drain.
- 5
Wipe and reassemble
Wipe the control panel and hood with soapy water, dry it, put everything back, and light the grill to confirm every burner lights and burns blue.
How to do a deep cleaning
Plan for an afternoon. Add to the basic kit: a biodegradable degreaser, a stiff nylon brush, a venturi or bottle brush, a small wire or paper clip, a large plastic tub or contractor bag for soaking, and a tarp or drop cloth.
- 1
Protect the area and remove parts
Lay down a tarp. With the gas off and the grill cold, take out grates, heat plates, warming rack and grease tray. Remove the burners: most lift out after a cotter pin, screw or clip at the back is removed, then slide off the valve orifices at the front. Take a photo first so you know how they go back.
- 2
Soak the heavy parts
Put grates, plates and the tray in a tub or a doubled contractor bag with hot water and a biodegradable degreaser. Let them soak at least an hour, then scrub with the nylon brush. Porcelain-coated parts should never see a wire brush or steel wool.
- 3
Clean the burners
Brush each burner along its length. Clear clogged ports with a straightened paper clip, pushing gently. Run a venturi brush through the inlet tube to remove spider webs and debris. Shake out anything loose. Look for cracks, holes, or ports that have rusted into slots; those burners need replacing.
- 4
Degrease the firebox and hood
Scrape the firebox down, then apply degreaser, let it work, and scrub. Scrape the carbon flakes that peel off the inside of the hood. Wipe out the residue with paper towels and a small amount of water. Keep water away from igniter electrodes and wiring.
- 5
Check igniters and reassemble
Make sure each igniter tip is clean and sits close to its burner (usually about 1/8 inch). Reinstall the burners with the inlets seated fully over the valve orifices, then the plates, grates and tray.
- 6
Test and polish
Reconnect the gas, do a soap test on the connections you disturbed, and light each burner. Flames should be mostly blue with small yellow tips at most. Finish the exterior stainless with a polish, wiping with the grain.
Where DIY deep cleans usually fall short
Most people do a good job on the grates and a so-so job on everything below them. These are the spots that get missed:
- The venturi tubes. The section of burner between the valve and the first ports is where spiders build webs. You can't see it without removing the burner. A blocked tube causes weak flames and, in the worst case, a fire behind the control panel. See spiders in burner tubes.
- Under the burners. Grease runs down the firebox walls and pools underneath where the burners sit.
- The grease chute. On many built-ins, a channel leads from the firebox to the tray. When it clogs, grease backs up and starts dripping into the island.
- Rotisserie and infrared burners. The rear rotisserie burner on many premium grills gets coated and never cleaned. Ceramic infrared burners should not be scrubbed or soaked at all.
When a deep clean isn't enough
A deep clean sometimes turns up things a cleaning can't fix: heat plates rusted through, burners with split seams, a cracked firebox, valves that stick. That's normal on grills more than eight or ten years old, especially near the coast. At that point you're looking at a repair or a full restoration. Many replacement parts are inexpensive relative to the grill, so a worn-out burner is rarely a reason to replace the whole thing.
If you'd rather skip the afternoon of grease, a professional cleaning covers everything in the deep-clean list, plus a look at the parts most likely to fail next.
Common questions
Can I use oven cleaner on my grill?
We don't recommend it. Oven cleaner is caustic, it can etch aluminum castings and discolor stainless, and it's harsh on skin and plants. Hot water, time, and a biodegradable degreaser handle most grills.
Can I put grates in the dishwasher?
Small stainless grates sometimes fit, but grease and carbon can clog the dishwasher filter. Cast iron should never go in the dishwasher; it will rust.
Should I pressure wash my grill?
Not the inside. High-pressure water drives grease into seams, soaks igniter wiring and valves, and can bend thin heat shields. It also sends greasy water across the yard.
How do I know if a burner needs replacing instead of cleaning?
Holes or cracks in the burner body, ports that have rusted into long slots, or flames that stay uneven after cleaning are signs it's time. Our guide on signs burners need replacing goes into more detail.
Related guides and repairs
How Often Should You Clean Your Grill?
A realistic cleaning schedule for gas grills in LA: what to do after every cook, once a month, and once or twice a year, and what shortens the interval.
Care & how-toWhat Happens During a Professional Grill Cleaning
What a professional grill cleaning actually involves, step by step, plus what to ask any company before you book and how to get ready for the visit.
Care & how-toEco-Friendly Grill Degreasers: What Works
An honest look at biodegradable and non-toxic grill degreasers: what cuts grease, what doesn't, what's safe on each surface, and where the dirty water should go.
TroubleshootingSpiders in Burner Tubes
Spider webs in burner venturi tubes are a common cause of weak flames and flashback fires. Here's how to spot it, clean it and prevent it.
Care & how-toStainless Steel Grill Care
How to keep stainless steel grills and outdoor kitchens looking right: everyday wiping, removing tea staining and rust spots, dealing with hard water, and what to never use.
RepairUneven Heat & Hot Spots
One side burning, the other barely warm: clogged ports, damaged burners and warped heat plates found and fixed.
RepairLow Flame & Weak Heat
Flames stuck on low and a grill that won't get hot: regulator bypass, blockages and gas supply problems diagnosed and fixed.
RepairHeat Plate & Flavorizer Replacement
Rusted, warped and burned-through heat plates, flavorizer bars and briquette trays replaced with matched parts.
RepairFlare-Ups & Grease Fires
Constant flare-ups and grease fires traced to their cause, with damaged parts replaced and the grease path cleared.
Want the deep clean done for you?
Call or text, or send a couple of photos of your grill and we'll get back to you with a quote.