Gas Grill Burner Replacement

Some burner problems are dirt and some are damage. Dirt can be cleaned. Damage can't. The signs that point to damage are pretty consistent: holes or slots that have rusted wider than their neighbors, tall wild flames shooting out of one spot, a burner that flakes or bends when you lift it, cracks along a seam, or a section that won't light at all no matter how clean it is.

Flame color tells you a lot, too. A healthy burner runs mostly blue with small yellow tips. Lazy yellow flames that leave soot on the grates point to an airflow or blockage problem, which our yellow flame guide covers. If cleaning doesn't bring the blue back, the burner itself is often the problem.

With the grill off, cool, and the gas shut off, lift out the grates and heat plates. Most burners lift out once you remove a cotter pin, clip or screw at the back. Look along the length of each one. Run a finger along the ports: they should all be about the same size. Look inside the open end of the venturi with a flashlight for webs. Tap it gently and see if rust flakes off.

If the burner looks solid, cleaning the ports with a soft brass brush and clearing the tube may be all it needs. Our guide to signs your burners need replacing has photos of what to look for.

When you put a burner back, the open end has to slide fully over the gas orifice. A burner sitting beside its orifice instead of on it will dump gas into the firebox, which is a real fire hazard. If you're not sure it's seated, leave it out and call us.

A universal burner that's half an inch short or has the inlet at a slightly different angle may light, but it won't sit right on the orifice and won't heat evenly. On premium brands like Lynx, Fire Magic and DCS we use OEM burners. On grills where the original is discontinued, we find the closest true fit. Infrared and sear burners are different animals and have their own page: infrared burner repair.