Two kinds of modules
Battery modules are the most common. A push button on the front panel holds a single AA or AAA battery, and the module behind it turns that into a train of high-voltage pulses, one output per burner. 120-volt modules show up on many premium built-ins and outdoor kitchens. They're powered from an outlet or a hardwired circuit, sometimes through a transformer, and some fire automatically when you push in and turn a knob. That second kind uses small switches on each valve stem to tell the module when to spark.
Both live in a hot, damp, dusty spot. Heat from the firebox and moisture from the marine layer are the two things that kill them most often in Los Angeles.
Symptoms and what they usually mean
Nothing at all
Dead battery, corroded battery contacts, a cracked push button, or on 120V grills a tripped GFCI outlet or failed transformer. Module failure comes after those are ruled out.
Slow, weak ticking
Almost always a low battery or poor contact. On 120V systems it can be a module on its way out.
Clicks but no spark at some burners
Module is working. The problem is at the electrode or wire for those burners.
Learn moreClicks nonstop and won't quit
On knob-activated 120V systems, a stuck or wet valve stem switch is the usual cause. Water in the module can do it too.
Works when dry, fails after rain or fog
Moisture in the module or connectors. Common on grills without covers and on coastal patios.
Safe things to check first
These solve a good share of module calls before anyone opens a panel.
- Unscrew the push-button cap and replace the battery. Note which way the positive end faces.
- Look for white or green corrosion on the spring and contacts. Clean it with a pencil eraser or fine sandpaper.
- On 120V grills, check and reset the GFCI outlet the grill plugs into, and any breaker for the outdoor kitchen.
- If the grill was just rained on or hosed down, let it dry out for a day before deciding the module is dead.
- Watch the electrodes while you press the button. Spark at all of them means the module is fine.
How we diagnose and replace a module
- 1
Rule out the simple stuff
Battery, contacts, outlet, breaker, and the wiring harness connectors. We check these before calling the module bad.
- 2
Test the module
With the panel off, we check input power and watch each output with the electrode leads connected. A module that sparks on two outputs out of four has failed internally.
- 3
Match the replacement
Modules vary by number of outputs, voltage, connector type and mounting. We match by model tag, or by the module itself when the tag is gone.
- 4
Install and protect
The new module goes in its original location, wires dressed away from heat, and connectors sealed where moisture is a known issue.
- 5
Test every burner
We light each burner from the button several times, and on knob-activated systems confirm the clicking stops once the burner lights.
Older and discontinued grills
A lot of built-ins around Los Angeles are 15 or 20 years old, and the original module may no longer be made. In most cases a universal module with the right number of outputs and the right voltage does the job, mounted where the old one was. When a grill has other problems stacking up, it's worth reading finding parts for discontinued grills and repair or replace before you decide.
The model and serial tag helps a lot here. Our guide to finding it shows where most brands put it.
Ignition module questions
Why does my grill keep clicking after the burner is lit?
On grills where turning the knob triggers the spark, a switch on the valve stem tells the module to stop. If that switch sticks, gets greasy or gets wet, the module keeps firing. Sometimes drying it out fixes it; often the switch or harness needs replacing.
Can I just use a long lighter instead?
Yes, as a stopgap. Light through the match-light hole with the hood open. It's a reasonable way to keep cooking while you wait for a repair.
Does a grill cover help the module last longer?
It can, by keeping rain and sprinkler spray off the panel. Covers have trade-offs near the coast, though. Our grill cover guide explains when they help and when they trap moisture.
Is a universal module as good as OEM?
For battery modules, a good universal unit with the right output count works well. For 120V systems tied into valve switches, OEM is usually the safer bet.
What does a new ignition module cost?
It depends on the grill, the module type and whether the part is OEM or universal. Call or text with your model number and we'll quote it.
Related guides
BBQ Grill Repair
On-site repair for gas grills: ignition, burners, valves, regulators, gas leaks and the hardware that wears out, with common parts carried on the truck.
Care & how-toFinding Your Grill's Model and Serial Number
Where grill makers hide the rating plate, how to read it when it's faded, and what to do if it's gone. Saves time and wrong parts on any repair.
Buying adviceOEM vs. Universal Grill Parts
Which grill parts are fine to buy universal, which should always be original, and how to measure so a replacement actually fits.
Care & how-toOutdoor Kitchen Maintenance Checklist
A practical maintenance checklist for the whole outdoor kitchen: grill, side burners, fridge, sink, countertops, cabinets, lighting and gas, organized by how often.
Igniter gone quiet?
Call or text us, or send a photo of your control panel and model tag. We'll figure out whether it's the module, the wiring or something simpler.